we want rigging

I second that

Give us rigging! LOL

That painting looks really good for hand painting. Respect.

Summer has been a bit busy but I'm back at the bench... more to follow shortly

Cheers

Adam

Me, too!
... but look at Jesper's impressive ribbon collection and his post-count!
I am quite certain that he won't be letting us sit here with a half-baked bird.
You wouldn't, Jesper, would you?



Just finishing a build for Armorama... then I might through in another quicky before the campaign is over... have somthing on my mind, already. Super-Esotheric and yet it was a floating boat in the real world...

Guido

Jesper: Outstanding brush work so far! That Swordfish would look good on a little piece of flight deck, with ground crew.

Thanks for the comments, guys. I really appreciate it.

I will probably have to go for the rigging. The satisfaction of having a finished 1/72 Swordfish with rigging would be irresistable.

More to follow

Mirage Orp Orzel 1/400

Hi folks, my day job is Park Management so you can imagine the summer is a bit busy for me but I have been watching the forum with respect for the work that's being done.

Anyway I have managed to paint the boat with just one bit going awry with a ridge at the masking.
I'll let the paint cure fully then gently sand it back, any other ideas as to how to deal with this issue appreciated.



My aim is to build a crisp clean build, to challenge myself to get the basics right but I think some very subtle washes or highlights will be needed to bring out what little detail there is and make the boat look more realistic. The colours are as per the instructions, which is one of the things which attracted me to this sub but need to be blended (is that the right word) into a coherant whole.





The dive plane guards look way over scale. After fiddling about with bits of wire, soldering and ca glueing, non of which worked for me, I decided to simply thin down the plastic by gently paring it down with a scalpel and sanding. Even just taking the squarness off (the images I have looked at suggest round bars) is an improvement (IMHO)



Cheers

Adam

As always, comments and suggestions appreciated

Very nice work from all of you. I enjoy looking at these GB's for Ideas and enthusiasm. Thanks to all of you...Cheers Mark

Have now been able to get back into the swing of things now that the holidays are over
Adam the build is coming together good
I,ve added a little extra detail to the wheel house from some photos not to much just to fill it up a bit more and then started on the painting and boy does it take a lot of paint


[imghttp://gallery.kitmaker.net/data/25245/Picture_00530.jpg][/img]
most of the painting has been done for now in sub assemblies need to add the windows fix the deck in place and start to wheather it oh and make the seascape and figures

Looks good so far, Keith. Looking forward to see more of this monster build.

Summer break is over: Great work guys!
Keep it coming!
Cheers,
Guido

Adam – nice build so far. Are you using a brush or AB to paint? Paint also looks a tad granular/coarse. I had the same issue with my first couple subs (mask bleed). Some solutions: burnish the mask at the edge, AB perpendicular to the mask, even seal the mask with Future/Klear (for me, burnishing and AB at an angle works the best; you also get a less hard edge).

Keith – nice progress, look forward to the rest of the build!

At my end, nothing worthwhile to show a pic except to note that the “Modern Sub series” by ARII (1:700) are really mediocre to be honest. Accuracy issues, thick props, random scopes/antennae, etc. The relatively recent HobbyBoss offerings at that scale are better AND cheaper; avoid the old ARII subs!

Oh, I also found out that the kits which I bought in Ebay second hand are missing all the props…. Maybe not a huge loss since the kit props were off scale and inaccurate.

Hi
I'm airbrushing and I agree, the red did come out quite granular. Thats one of the problems I have with airbrushing, am I not thinning enough or too far away from the model?
I had to build up several layers, grey, olive and then the red, being the last and the only one to bleed, very annoying.

So any air brush technique advise appreciated but I realise I just have to keep on practising.
Thanks
Adam

Just threw my hat into the ring. I'll be building the Resin Shipyards 1/350 Oberon Class submarine as HMCS ONONDAGA which served the Canadian Navy proudly from 1967 until 2000. There is a bit of a family connection with this boat, my father joined her in build and served in her until 1973. I joined her 20 years later until 1997.

A little more progress on the old Matchbox Swordfish. The main paint job is done - or at least I though until I saw the pictures. Some of the paint on the wings edge needs to be retouched. Otherwise it is ready for decals.

I have decided to finish the build completely before trying to tackle the rigging for the wings. When (if ) the rigging is done I do not want to handle it too much as I will probably break some of the rigging.

Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures. Looks bad both with and without flash. I will get better pictures in daylight of the finished result.

Comments welcome

Jesper: Very, very nice. How'd you achieve such an even finish with a brush?

Looking good!
What do you plan on using for rigging, Jesper?
Guido

Thanks for the comments, guys. I appreciate it

JT, I use the P3 paints which have exceptionelly fine pigments and use several thin coats. 3-4 thin coats pr. colour building up the colour gradually. If you do not know the P3 colour series, you can see more HERE

Guido, I plan to use some very thin plastic rod - mere like plastic string really. Then cut to the right lengths and super glue it in place. It will be very fragile, so I will finish everything else first. I have never tried it before, but I will give it a try.

Jesper-
If you give me your mailing address I'll send you some of my ship rigging material:
I have 0.02mm yarn that can easily super-glued and be tightenend with a heat source (joss stick) or I have 0.01mm elastic that needs to be painted with permanent marker, but is easily fixed with super glue. The advantage of the latter is that it won't break - ever.
Contact me at guido.hopp(at)gmail.com, if you are interested.
Guido

Guys, I'm working on U-1023, a Type VIIC/41. Instructions call for "Teerfirnis 99". What exactly is this colour? Is it more grey than green?

Hi, JT!
Teerfirnis is a tar-based wood finish, that was very dark grey with a green tint, but tended to turn into greyish-brownish shades under the bleachig effects of the sun and salt water. The surface was subject to abrasion in areas of increased traffic (around hatches, guns, on the open bridge, in front of ladders), where it would turn even lighter.
HTHH,
Guido

Wow, that sounds very promising. I will send you my address by email.

I am not sure what you mean by joss stick as heat source for the yarn? I am not familiar with what a joss stick is? Sorry for my ignorance.

Thanks a lot for the help!!

Jesper: Joss sticks are also known as incense. Chinese (like me) use them for ceremonies and whatnot. Most of them are scented, so if you have allergies/sensitive nose, it's best to stay away from them.

Guido: Thanks!

Having worked on 2 AFV Club U-Boats, here are some of my complaints:

1. Rudder/propulsion assembly is extremely fiddly and prone to breakage/missing parts/causing loss of patience and subsequent rise in blood pressure.

2. The fit of the between the upper and lower hull is dodgy at best. Very frustrating.

3. Pressure hull unnecessary. More alignment/fit problems may occur due to this part.

I'll post pix later. Until then, it's back to the workbench for me!
Remember: The best adhesive in the world is superglue and a prayer.

*Update: Kinda p*ssed right now as my VIIC/41's hull is extremely difficult to join together. Out of alignment.

*Update 2: I'm tempted to do a splinter camo scheme on the boat.

I know what you mean JT - just finished a AFV VII B as a waterline, but for the sake of it, I assembled the lower hull, and its a royal pain in the... something.

But its by far the most detailed and sharp subs in 1:350 unless you go for resin.

Jesper - du kan få røgelsespinde i de fleste kina og vietnam supermarkeder - men som han skriver så stinker de, og har du problemer med duftlys, så kommer de her også til at drille dig.

Sorry for the danish

Cheers/Jan

My rudder assembly looks like crap. Imma cheat and paint over the imperfections...

Pictures!
Still a big WIP though, I need to clean up and basically make it more presentable. Also, the Snorchel is pointing the wrong way

I might do U-997's meander camo pattern once my hands stop quivering like an old man's...














By the way, How do I make the PE rigging sag realistically??