A couple of piccies of the tormenting pieces I have been installing over the past week or so..


First up the pieces which attach the anti-torpedo nets to the ships hull. Two parts but both very very little... I lost a few of the silver parts but they turned up again later.. I originally glued the silver rigs onto the hull befor looking at the eyes that go in them. I didn't realise I had to drill more holes in the hull to take the eye-pieces. When I went to drill the holes with the silver parts in situ they almost inevitably came away from the hull and I had to retrieve them from the drill bit. Three of them didn't, 23 decided to be painful. All done now.


Then we have the boom holders. Easy filds, but also easy to break!

Now if the grey colour I need could just get here I could go further, but until then I will go onto something else.. Maybe another Battleship!

Cheers
Warren

Nice work guys. Warren I really like those clamps where did you get them. I guess your building her nets deployed. I have the Trumpeter kit and want to make her nets folded but have yet to find a good media for the rolled nets. What a chore deploying and folding nets must have been.

Simon those pom poms look insane. I'm sure they will look amazing. Side bar were the 2pder pom poms as effective as the bofors? Wouldn't that space have been better served by quad 40mm mounts.

Well I don't have much to show as I got the flu and have been down for the last week. I was able to put up the video game to work and got sick. On the mend now so hopefully back to the workshop soon.

Tom

Thanks Tom, they are a bit mental, but worth the effort.

The PomPom lacked the range and accuracy of the 40mm bofors, but at close range they put up an awful lot of flak. In the long run the quad bofors was more effective. In fact from 1944 onwards quite a number of British warships from cruisers upwards di receive quad bofors, earlier than that the US could only produce enough mounts for its on needs.

All six mounts painted and assembled.



and fitted to the ship



including the roof of Y turret.



Here ends the saga of the PomPoms, next the foremast

The main lower components.



Si

Simon, I figured as much after seeing quad 40s on late war KGVs. I remember reading that the amount of AA directors was more important then the amount of barrels. Director fire being much more effective than locally aimed fire.

I just recieved the Trumpy HMS Belfast in 1/350. Maybe a cruiser campaign when this is over. She always had a place in my heart since I visited her as a young GI stationed in Germany.
Cheers,

Tom

Sorry about the two pictures the same but for some unknown reason I can't edit my own posts in this blog. Typical housekeeping problem that doesn't seem to be attended too at the moment.

Here is the picture that is SUPPOSED to be there..


That is one of the 26 brackets that hold the booms when they are folded.

I will start the Sevastopol next as I found I do have the correct colour for her, Tamiya XF20. On conversion chart says one colour is not a match for another, but in my case I think the colour of a shio varies all the time due to fading, quality of the paint etc etc and I don't really think that a Russian ship from pre-WW1 would have a great quality paint....

Tom this is a great idea I know there has been one in the past but we could easily do another.

Rest of you guys, wish time allowed me to partake but I'm watching from the side lines and enjoying what I see

How about a Destroyer and Aircraft Carrier campaign as well?

A tin can campaign sounds good to me, I've almost or possible got more destroyers in my stash than the Kriegsmarine had during the war (that includes allied and Jap)

G'day trendsetters!

Welcome to my replacement build for the Mighty Battleship Campaign, Zvezda's 1/350 Sevastopol with the Pontos detail set just to make it a bit more difficult to build..

First up, here are the two items alluded to above..

Both have been reviewed here so I am not going to take more pictures to show you what you get in the boxes.

First step was to remove the two hull haves from their sprues. Be careful you do not cut them off too close to the hull as even the sharpest end cutters will damage the this ridge around the top of the hull.. Yes I have some patching to do..

First holes I drilled where the portholes. Not too many in this ship.

After that you drill holes in the hull as directed by the instructions, but if you are using the Pontos set you don't need to drill anywhere near as many holes as if you were using plastic bits. The brass pieces do not require locating holes for the ledges and boom holders, just for the area where the booms attach to the hull. Like the Dreadnought set drill the holes BEFORE you attach the holders to the hull or you will need to attach them again after they come off while you drill the necessary holes.

After all the drilling you need to add the casemate guns along either side of the hull before you glue the halves together.. well you could do it afterwards if you didn't want to follow the instructions.

But before you can install the 120mm guns you need to build the gun assemblies. All you use from the kit is the round plastic bits that hold the gun..

Which is the grey bit on the left. The detail set comes with brass barrels for all the guns on the ship, including 16 x 120mm guns.

But before you glue the gun into its holder you need to anneal the brass gun shields provided in the detail set or they will not be easy to role..

All the colours of the rainbow!

After removing the shields from their frets I rolled the nice, malleable brass around a metal pin the same diameter as the gun holder. After that I held the shield against the holders with tweezers and applied some Thin CA glue followed by some accelerator so I could handle them sooner.

You end up with 16 of these assemblies. Too try and make them look a little more detailed I painted the remainder of the visible faces of the holders matt black too look like you were peering into a shadow rather than at a lump of plastic behind the brass shield.


Then after all that you try and install the assemblies and they don't even go close to fitting due to the extra brass layer around them. After spending about 30 minutes getting one to go close to fitting perfectly I gave up and just installed them as well as I could. No one will see the back of them when the deck is applied, and I don't model for God like some people. If you can't see it after the model is finished its toast!

And that's it so far. Gun assemblies are drying and latter tonight I will attempt the dangerous task of gluing the hull halves together.

Cheers
Warren

Nice one Warren,

I have these two in the loft.

My turn to watch and learn.

Si

Hi Tom,

You are correct, the number of directors is important, the Royal Navy learnt that with the loss of the Prince of Wales and Repulse.

Like the idea of a cruiser campaign, I have Prinz Eugen waiting to be built.

Si

Hold yer Horse there you lot let me get this one finished never mind starting to plan another one you lot will have me at the bench even longer although that might not be so much of a bad idea

Keith

Not to worry, I'm in an air and armor campaign as well right nowl. I was thinking about late 2015. " The pattern is full". Right now.

Tom

Good start Warren, this is one ship I keep looking at but think no I'll wait for the Marat in WWII fit, I'll keep an eye on your build and you may sway my mind.

You know you want to build it.. One problem with the WW2 fit is that ugly front funnel setup. Will have to see how it looks in 1/350 scale.

Cheers
Warren

Good Job all.
Keep up the good work.

Did I miss something or is someone taking the Mick here using somebody else Avatar/ login ?????

I'm not normally interfering with a campaign when I'm not participating, but let me say, great work here from all!!!

Warren, great to see you back at the workbench!! Always a pleasure watching your builds!

Jan

Thanks Jan..

Keith, I too think something is very wrong there... Unless Bruce is logging in from the other side...

I've made a post on the site related thread hope one of the admin team picks it up.

Under investigation and I wish he could be doing this from the other side.

Even stranger this post was made after the last date his account was active.

I emailed Jim direct.. if he can get around to reading his emails....

Greetings fellow modellers.

Don't get me wrong I wasn't slinging off at our esteemed owner, just he is a busy person at times and can take a while to read his emails and he is investigating the cause of the 'Ghost' writing even as I type..

Have you ever gone to the trouble of finding a recommended colour just to find that it is nothing like what you THINK it should be?

Trumpeter recommends Gunze H-333 for the hull colour of its 1907 HMS Dreadnought, which I ordered and it arrived today.
On the left is Tamiya XF-77 and the right Gunze H-333.


Looks about the same to my eyes in natural light. I already had some of these but they were not listed anywhere as alternates to H-333 which I purchased specifically for this build. Problem is, I don't think it is even close to the correct colour. It appears to be much too dark in my 'umble opinion. Check out the contrast with the grey recommended for the Sevatopol..

Just a touch darker..

Now, this colour would be ideal for a pre-coat for shading purposes, but can anyone tell me what colour would be appropriate for the hull etc on the Zvezda Dreadnought which is in its 'Just Prior To WW1' fit. The colour in the 3D Dreadnaught book is also lots lighter. But I am not 100% sure that is accurate either.

Thanks in advance,
Warren

Hi Warren,

Try XF75 / TS66 Kure Arsenal Grey it is quite close to AP507B, it is lighter and has a slight blueish tinge. It is what I used on my Dreadnought.

On with the Duke.

Setting up the foremast was tricky, especially with the etched shack half way up. In the end a resorted to fitting the lower mast and support legs in place on the ship, and applying glue at the top.



The completed lower mast removed and the shack fitted.



The starfish assembled and the base of the radar fitted.



I have fixed gap in the railings at the forward end. (didn't really notice until I blew the picture up)

More soon

Si.