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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
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Operation: Warships of the Atlantic Conflict
TreadHead
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Posted: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 05:07 PM UTC
Howdy Son',

That's very good news! (I think). Hopefully the other guys can keep me from saying "Misery loves company"?
Actually, truth be told. Marines thrive on a challenge! So, between the bunch of us (mostly Son and me ), we'll get this thing figured out!

Tread.

Now.......if the Air Force was trying to figure it out, they'd call room service for some plush 'blankies'
and a nice smelling 'teddy'!.............just kidding guys.

Tread.
Ranger74
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 05:48 AM UTC
[quote]Now.......if the Air Force was trying to figure it out, they'd call room service for some plush 'blankies' and a nice smelling 'teddy'!.............just kidding guys/quote]

Tread - You are only partly correct - First they would consult the weather - If it is raining, they wouldn't get out of bed
BlueBear
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 11:02 AM UTC
I will be starting out by cutting away the moulded on railing outside of the flightdeck catwalks and the hull for a waterline build for new railings. I will be useing the Tom's Modelworks photoetch set for the Graf Zeppelin, building him as his projected, laid down, but historically cancelled brother ship, the Peter Strasser.
I will be filling in the lowermost row of portholes which are only about 10' above the waterline, and I am probably going to add an additional armor belt fore and aft of the anti-torpedo blisters from stem to stern as some added protection against the ice for operations in the North and Arctic Seas. If I have enough time, I will also be building and including a SkyWave/ Tamiya Z-class Destroyer off his quarter as a plane guard for flight operations
garrybeebe
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 11:43 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I will be starting out by cutting away the moulded on railing outside of the flightdeck catwalks and the hull for a waterline build for new railings. I will be useing the Tom's Modelworks photoetch set for the Graf Zeppelin, building him as his projected, laid down, but historically cancelled brother ship, the Peter Strasser.
I will be filling in the lowermost row of portholes which are only about 10' above the waterline, and I am probably going to add an additional armor belt fore and aft of the anti-torpedo blisters from stem to stern as some added protection against the ice for operations in the North and Arctic Seas. If I have enough time, I will also be building and including a SkyWave/ Tamiya Z-class Destroyer off his quarter as a plane guard for flight operations


Good Choice Bluebear, Thats going to be an interesting diorama . I dont think I have ever seen the Peter Strasser built before, And that along with a Z class destroyer will make a nice dio display!



Garry
TreadHead
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 12:53 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Can I make a suggestion here? We might want to start additional threads for the ships wer'e building. This thread is getting huge, 12 pages now, and some people don't read past a couple pages.



Howdy Rodger,

I sincerely appreciate the constructive critique from both you and SonOfAVet. I have been thinking about starting a new thread in the 'Campaigns' Forum, but hesitate to just 'barge' in with something that's not a 'Campaign'.
I'm also not comfortable with splitting up the thread either. I believe that would create a 'fragmentation' of the hard-earned cohesiveness of the Build itself.
So....to make sure I am adhering to site policies, and to do the very best thing I can do for the fine members of this Group Build. I will council with Staff Member 'Gunnie' and get his input on the properly supported direction to proceed.

Tread.
TreadHead
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 01:22 PM UTC
[quote]
Quoted Text

Now.......if the Air Force was trying to figure it out, they'd call room service for some plush 'blankies' and a nice smelling 'teddy'!.............just kidding guys/quote]

Tread - You are only partly correct - First they would consult the weather - If it is raining, they wouldn't get out of bed


LOL....my apologies to our AF representitives. Both Ranger and I are just exercising our 'inter-service' rivalries a wee bit is all.......no need to call in the ARTILLERY!!
Truth be told, if it wasn't for the AF, we'd have been S.O.L. a thousand times over!

But....if we don't 'jab' em every once in awhile, they tend to get their entire 'beauty' rests! #:-) #:-)

Tread.
ARMDCAV
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 05:11 AM UTC
Correct about the barbettes. The're like silos extending from the bottom where the powder magazines are up to the main deck. The barbette is solid from the top to the bottom allowing access to the barbette only through special doors in the bottom . The powder is introduced into the barbette through self closing hatches sort of like a public mail box. When open on the barbette side it's closed on the powder magazine side and vice versa. These magazines can be flooded almost instantly in case of fire. The projectiles are stacked around the barbette on circular platforms attached to the barbette sides leaving the center open from top to bottom. The turret needs to be aligned with hoist stations or elevators if you like, set around the inside of these platforms. A projectile is then selected and moved on to the hoist platform and lifted up to the gun charging stations in the turret.
Very few people have ever seen the inside of these barbettes because of the need to decend to the bottom of the ship before gaining access to them.
The battleship USS Alabama is the only one I know that opened up a barbette for public viewing. The opening itself is awsome just in the thickness of the barbette. You walk through several feet of armor.
Ranger74
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 05:19 AM UTC
This is a request for assistance I would like to acquire a couple 1/700 CH-46 helos to go on the flight deck of the Nashville. Also, If I can get some AA7Vs or the earlier AA5 versions in 1/700, i will have the ship ballasted down with ramp down and the little buggers swarming out for an amphibious landing.

I know they are made, but have forgotten who manufactures these items in 1/700

Jeff

modelguy2
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 06:03 AM UTC
Jeff,

JAG makes 'Tracks, Trucks, Humvees and Lav 25's in cast metal. Ot you can buy a DML Tarawa and get some AAv's ch-53 and 46 AH-1's:





My 1/700 dio with Tarawa and Wasp:

TreadHead
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 09:07 AM UTC
O.K. fellas,

What do you ship modelers do about these rather obvious seperation lines between the three deck sections?

I welcome any kind of Abra Cadabra!

Thanks,

Tread.
modelguy2
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 09:12 AM UTC
ya gotta do whatcha gotta do tread. Givem a light sand to square everything up and get a good tight joint, then glue em and sand em smooth. You're going to loose detail. There's no way around it........Mike T
TreadHead
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 09:43 AM UTC



Hmmmm......Mike, apparently you weren't listening. I did request "Abra Cadabra", not old-fashioned Miyagi "Rub-on, Rub-off"! Sheeeeeeshh..........

O.K., so much for 'magic'.

Next question. I have the Hobby Craft 1/350th Bismark (as does SonOfAVet), and the deck plank 'lines' are not crisp to say the least (I hope they're better on the Tammy kit).
Anyway. So a little loss of those lines is no biggie. I think I can rescribe them to at least match what's already there. I would use either a scribing tool, or the back of a used #11 blade. What would you suggest? Rescribe, or leave them alone?

Tread.
TreadHead
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 10:24 AM UTC
Oh, modelguy2......I don't know if you're aware or not, but I'm throwing a wee 7-month long party. It's the 1st Annual Armorama Artillery Campaign called "Incoming!!"
And we are ferventing looking for courageous and talented modelers that want to become part of the absolutely stellar cast of Armorama modelers already signed up with what I'm sure is going to be the sharing Event of the Year here at Armorama. It has already broken all the records on site. I think at last count we are up to almost SEVENTY participating members!
Anyway, I have another member I was hoping to talk into joining all of the other wonderful people who have jumped on board the "Incoming!!" Campaign, but was hoping to get your opinion of his work, and whether or not you think he would be a great candidate.....do you mind? It'll just take a minute. Thanks :-)

Here's some picture's of qualifying piece's this guy has already built, so can you imagine if he got his hands on an AFV 'Long Tom' kit for instance?

Here's his Sturmtiger.....


and his M 109.....


finally, his Bison.


What do you think? Do you think I should ask him if he'd be interested in building ARTILLERY?

Thanks for you time.

Tread.
garrybeebe
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 01:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text

O.K. fellas,

What do you ship modelers do about these rather obvious seperation lines between the three deck sections?

I welcome any kind of Abra Cadabra!

Thanks,

Tread.


Ok Tread, ya might try this. Use white glue to fill the deck seam. Slowly and a little at a time, build it up untill it fills the gap, it shrinks. Then level it out. If carefully applied there should not be much sanding. Wonderful stuff that white glue, its my buddy!

HTH :-)

Garry
ARMDCAV
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 03:51 PM UTC
Filling seams. Glue the deck seams to geather being careful to align them properly. Reinforce the seams with styrene from underneath so they won't flex later. Make sure your strips don't interfere with any moving parts or the edge of the deck where it sits between the hull sides. After they are dry, fill if necessary, sand, then rescribe the lines. Not really all that hard. Just takes patiences. Hint use a straight edge when scribing, light pass to assure it is straight then another to deepn it. If they are raised don't worry about it, use a #11 blade instead of a scriber. The #11 blade will leave a furrow or ridge which will conform to your raised lines. A scriber normally removes material. Someone mentioned earlier about the expansion joint found on large iron ships. They do exist unfortunetly not where your seams are going to be.
BlueBear
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 10:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Thanks for the input guys. I dont know about you Tread, but my deck does not fit perfectly with the hull, there are some gaps that i must fill around the edges. Also, the main deck comes in 3 pieces, so there are 2 huge line that cut across the deck as well, again more filling and rescribing/sanding. I must do all this before I can paint the deck. BTW- what colors/brand of paints you using on your Bis Tread?

Sean


Howdy Son',

Don't you have the Tamiya Bismark? I have the Hobby Craft version and it sounds identical to yours, except I'm sure my plastic (and mouldings) are a tad 'softer'.
I have the very same problems you have. Which makes me want to scream "Who the hell designed this deck!!!" The division lines between the three separate deck pieces is like a big neon sign for crying out loud!
My moulded in (?) deck board lines are irregular to say the least.........but hey!
As far as which manufacturer of paint I'm going to use, I'll probably go with either Tamiya or Floquil for both familiarity and quality. I'm leaning towards a 'tighter' pigment strain because of the smaller 'scale'. When I do armour I use quite a bit of 'craft' paint.

Tread,


Hello guys, I've only seen a built-up Tamiya Bismarck once, and unless the builder did some fine putty work, the superstructure and the transverse float-plane catapult rails should pretty well camouflage the deck breaks when they are fitted. Try dry-fitting them, and see how it looks.
mikeli125
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 05:25 AM UTC
found this photo on the net, anyone fancy doing it for the group build? I'm sure nate says he's got the andrea minitures conning tower in for this

TreadHead
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 04:05 PM UTC



O.K. Nate......the ball is in your court!

Tread.
garrybeebe
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 04:14 PM UTC
Gained a little more on my Heller 1/400 DKM Lutzow. The hull is all painted and ready for the deck. And the deck is painted its tan wood color. tonight after the 4 year old goes to bed I will try to join the deck to the hull. The way it is at home here, I can only model when my son is either a sleep or is in school. Thank God for school! once school is out, it will be a late night modeling time only, he is my shadow! LOL! got to love it. I hope to start assembling the superstructure tomorrow night. The kit is going well, not a bad build at all.



Garry
mikeli125
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 08:38 PM UTC
commissioned the hull of my u-boat glued the trop doors in on the bow were a little tricky not 100% right but looks ok hull is taped together with electrical tape to hold it together hope to glue it later will be using super glue I think will post a pic or 2 later
modelguy2
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Posted: Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 04:06 AM UTC
Received the POW kit in the mail, and the PE set. Superstructures are built and painted. Have a case on order. Right now it's just mounted on a 1x6 for working. Since I already had the hull and guns it's Starting to look like a ship..Mike T
PorkChop
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Posted: Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 07:25 AM UTC
Hmmmm, don't think I'll do the "surfacing" thing as this will be my first time making water. I'll just be happy if I don't have to use real water to get the effect I want!!
leader
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Posted: Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 10:31 AM UTC
Update

Cut the hull of the Scheer to waterline, and put the 2 halves together. Also assembled the turrets and smaller guns, and cleaned them for flash, etc......now have make the superstructure, attatch the PE, and paint, then come the rails and rigging.
Ranger74
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Posted: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 - 02:51 PM UTC
Status of build of USS Nashville (LPD-13): finally got beyond looking at the parts, washed the hull and other large parts, have added the flag bridge and main bridge to the hull. Need now to hide the joint between decks and bulkheads.
BlueBear
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Posted: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 - 07:48 PM UTC
Well, the railings are off of my Peter Strasser, and my fingers are on the mend! I've discovered a trick to avoid having to use ye olde razor saw to do a waterline diorama. This is an alternate method to the mix, paint and pour routine required for epoxy water.
Go to an art supply store and buy a pack of artists canvases, the ones with the wood frames behind them. Use a good x-acto to cut the basic shape of the hull out in the position you wish to have it, then paint the canvas the appropriate color for the setting of your diorama. With your gell or guesso, work in your major swells, then the waves useing what ever technique works best for you. I will be useing the crumpled aluminum foil method myself.
Work the model into the opening before the "water" sets up to the approximate depth of the waterline, then do paint touch ups and work the "water" in around the hull, add bow and stern waves, the wake, and any effects such as shell splashes, torpedoe wakes, ships boat's wakes and splashes from crashed aircraft.
Place a final wet coat on the "water" to blend everything. Also, if you leave a 1/4 inch border around the edge of the canvas, and you can use a reversed painting or picture frame from the same art supply store for the diorama border.
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